holy crap! what a great trip this was. i wish i would have surfed better but that is what you get when you go head first into a building swell in a strange land. i still managed to get my biggest and longest wave of my life on this trip. i also got my shorts ripped down to my knees and pounded on the rocks when i blew the drop. i went for a smaller wave on the inside, which was still slightly overhead and pearled at the bottom. it took me a few moments to get my stuff together and there it was..... another clean up set and i was already over the shallow rock point. the next 2 mins was a complete blurr, paddle paddle paddle, shallow duck dive but still hit the rocks. then it took me farther into the rocks, almost panicking i pushed off the rocks with my feet to get some kind of momentum. this last ditch move did nothing for me, the white water was baring down on me once again. this time i didn't get pounded as hard but it did take my shorts to my knees. i knew i had to get out fast because the set waves where still coming. instead of going head on with the white water i went at an angle and got out of harms way for a second. i wad tired and for sure bleeding and just wanted to get to the beach. one more wave got me back on the rocks, this time i stayed calm and braced myself for the next wave. digging my feet on a couple of boulders the next wave came and i jumped up and out and paddled like hell. i made it out of the rocks and in the rip. the rip wasn't where i wanted to be becasuse it would drag me back out to the line up and the last thing i wanted was to go threw this whole thing again. i finally got a break and the last wave of the set carried me to the safety of the beach. with in a hour i was in the van on my way to the airport. i would have liked to report that i got and great wave all the way down the point to end my trip but that didn't happen. instead i got a good beating and sent on my way. a little reminder of who is in charge out there.
No comments:
Post a Comment