falllaalllallllllla

wishing everybody happy holiday, safe travels, and a great new year!

haNDS OF DOOM PART...here we go again

started another board the other day and i'm digging the shape. i have decided to name this the hangnail. it's a 6'2"X20 1/2"X2 5/8" quad. at least that is the plan.

FLOUR POWER

we might not be in maine but we are have some serious fun. oscar helped amy make some asian dumpling and had a great time. there was flour everywhere, from the front of the house to the kitchen.

this explains my friday session!

The population of California sea lions along the Oregon coast appears higher than normal this year.

Biologists say it happens every few years, and it may be due to El Nino, the Pacific Ocean warming cycle.

The scientists say El Nino has pushed many of the so-called "forage fish" -- such as herring, squid, hake, sardine and anchovies -- north from California into Oregon waters.

Jim Rice of Oregon State University says the OSU Marine Mammal Stranding Network has gotten plenty of calls in the past month about the sea lions.

But Rice says don't worry, the sea lions are not stranded -- they're just following the food, and it's getting a little crowded.

-- Associated Press

i have never seen so many of these not so little fellas in the water. they cruzed down the channel splashing and barking. i think they wanted us to know they were there and we were in their water. i was talking to casey in between sets and a big one splashed about a foot from the nose of my board. casey saw the whole thing go up and out of the water and just miss the tip of my board. it really scared the crap out of me cause i didn't see the lion until it was already underwater. once i saw it leap out the water next to casey i felt a little better. the way i decided to look at the situation was there was more than enough food in the ocean for the other larger animals that wear grey suits. we both got some good lefts, and i almost got a small tube on a right. the lip of the wave just smashed me in the side of the head. it has been a good run of surf this december for those who chose to go out in the sub-freezing temperatures.

christmas season

after surfing the turd we took a walk to get a tree. we have been getting trees from the same guy for the last 4 years. he a black dude that stands about 6foot6 and is missing one of his front teeth. he is a gentle giant trying to make a couple of bucks during the christmas season. we picked our tree and paid the man, plus put a little extra christmas cash in his pocket. i packed the tree back 6 blocks and oscar did the rest. a good little decorator he is.

ding ding ding

it not that bad. but still..........my first session on the thing?

offshore, really really offshore....

today was the maiden surf of the turd burger. the ocean was being groomed by 20-35mph offshore or east winds. the air was lingering around the 30deg. mark. let me put it this way, i was the coldest i have ever been after a surf session, maybe the coldest i've been in my life. a dude pulled up next to me in the parking lot and opened his door, the wind ripped it out of his hand and his door smashed my passenger side mirror. i was just hoping this wasn't going to be one of those days. the turd goes pretty well for my first board. it took awhile to figure it out, but by the end of the session i had a couple of good rights and even a left. to top the session off this guy ran me over while i was paddling back out. i don't know if he had tunnel vision or what but he didn't see me and i couldn't paddle fast enough. his fin chopped off the corner of my tail and that's that. looks like i will learn how to do ding repair. i'm glad it was the turd burger that got ran over and not a board i just payed 800bucks for